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A miter saw is the device for tasks that require precise lumber and moulding cuts-- specifically angles. But the tool called for reducing miters does so far more.
Sorts Of Miter Saws
With a board level on the base of a miter saw, any kind of angled cut across the vast face counts as a "miter" on any kind of miter saw. Turn the board on its side, location it versus the fencing, as well as you'll reduce a "bevel." The majority of saws reduced from 90 to 45 levels in both directions, and also some saws can reduce up to 55-degree angles.
Saws start to vary when you take a look at their blade diameter-- frequently 10 inches or 12 inches. The bigger the blade, the deeper and also broader its optimum cut. Generally, a 10-inch miter saw will cut a 2 x 6 at 90 degrees as well as a 2 x 4 at 45 levels; a 12-inch miter saw will certainly reduce a 2 x 8 at 90 levels and a 2 x 6 at 45 degrees.
Saws additionally vary by whether the blade arm just turns (a basic miter saw) or both swings and slides (a gliding miter saw). The gliding action can cut even bigger boards. A 12-inch variation, for example, will certainly cut a 2 x 16 at 90 degrees as well as a 2 x 12 at 45 degrees.
Either can end up being a compound saw-- the blade arm both swings at an angle and also turns at an angle to the bed of the table to cut both a bevel as well as miter simultaneously. This is mainly utilized to cut crown moulding.
Cutting with a Miter Saw
The cut angle and also timber density identify where the blade will contact the product. When marking a board, prolong the line throughout the stock, go down the blade to the wood to inspect your alignment, as well as change the board as needed before starting the saw.
When you're cutting a board, rest over half its size on the saw. If the board is too long, pile a couple of scraps next to the saw to sustain the overhanging board. For a timesaving remedy, install your saw on a saw stand with assistances for long stock.
Location the stock against the fencing at the rear of the saw base, and hold it with your hands (or a clamp) a minimum of 6 inches from the blade. Only then need to you start the saw.
Constantly keep your other hand on the saw handle. Both arms should be directly out in front of you, and your feet firmly grown.
Never ever cross your arms when operating the saw.
Start the saw on top of the operating setting, enable the motor to find up to speed, as well as bring the saw down right into the timber. When the board is reduced all the way via, launch the trigger and enable the blade to entirely quit before you increase the blade.
Learn the kinds of cuts you can make with a miter saw. Enjoy our DIY Basics video clip:
2 Time-Savers
You can speed up repeated cuts in two ways: Instead of separately gauging parts for identical routes, note the component size on a piece of concealing tape attached to the fencing. After that remove the tape when you're done.
With the saw unplugged and the blade down, procedure from the blade teeth to a factor on the fence equal to the part size.
With the end of a board pressed lightly versus the block, make your cut. Each part you cut after that will be the very same length-- simply blow away any sawdust that can load up against the quit block.
Quick Tips for Miter Saw Success
• Always cut the factory end from a board before measuring and also cutting a part for better fit as well as less sanding.
• Allow the saw do the work; don't require the blade via the timber.
• More teeth equates to smoother cuts. Use a blade with greater than 50 teeth for construction cuts. For great cuts, such as moulding, use a blade with greater than 90 teeth.
• Treated lumber normally has a higher moisture web content than building and construction lumber, so make use of a reduced tooth matter also for fine cuts. The open spaces in between the teeth clear the debris as well as put much less stress on the electric motor.
• Preferably, cut one angle end of a component prior to you note as well as cut the contrary end.
