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• Have You Heard Of two piece of ball valve?

  If you have basic valve knowledge, you are probably familiar with two piece of ball valve– one of the most common types of valves available today. A two piece of ball valve is typically a quarter-turn valve with a perforated ball in the middle to control flow. These valves are known for being durable with excellent shutoff, but don’t always offer very precise control. Let’s talk about when it’s okay to use a ball valve as a control valve. Even though two piece of ball valve aren’t the best device to control flow, they are still commonly used because of their cost effectiveness. You can get away with using a ball valve in an application that doesn’t require precise adjustability and control. For example, a ball valve should have no problem keeping a large tank filled at a certain level within a few inches. As with any equipment, you will need to take the complete process conditions into consideration before selecting your valve. This includes the product or material, size of piping, flow rate, etc. If you are trying to control an expensive material that you are worried about wasting, you might not want to rely on a two piece of ball valve . The two piece of ball valve aren’t very precise because their adjustment isn’t proportionate to the large amount of flow that the open hole provides. There is also ‘slop’ or ‘play’ in between the stem and ball that hinders precise control. Lastly, the amount of torque required to adjust two piece of ball valve doesn’t allow for fine adjustment near the “closed” and “open” position. When you need precise control over your application, a globe valve will be more accurate than a ball valve. Globe valves are considered the industry standard for control valves because they are good at regulating flow, whereas ball valves are better for on/off control without pressure drop. If you must use a ball valve to control your process, you might want to consider different types of ball valves depending on your application. A trunnion or v-port ball valve will perform better and allow for more accurate adjustability in certain scenarios. Trunnion ball valves have an additional mechanical anchoring of the ball at the top and bottom. They use a splined or keyed stem connection that eliminates any play between the ball and stem. V-port ball valves have a ‘V’ shaped ball instead of the standard round hole. This allows for more control because of the tapered opening, allowing for more linear flow. If you're located in Wisconsin or Upper Michigan and need help deciding which valve is best suited for your application, reach out to one of our engineers. Otherwise if you enjoyed this article, you might want to check out our post about when to use soft-seat ball valves vs. metal-seat ball valves.
• What Are The Types Of PP clamp?

  Who would have guessed that holding two pieces of material together could get so complicated? With countless variations of PP clamp, it can get hard to keep track of which one to use for your job. There are PP clamp for metal working, wood working, lifting, and special occasions. Rules for clamping: Always use a piece of scrap wood between the clamp jaws and wooden parts to prevent damaging the part. Apply clamp load perpendicular to the part to prevent slippage. Always use at least two clamps to prevent rotation. Do not overtighten the clamp. Overtightening can damage the clamp Dimide Clamp: Dimide Heavy-Duty Metalworking & Welding Clamp The Dimide Clamp is a heavy-duty metalworking & welding clamp that specializes in combining speed and power through impact wrench compatibility. Designed for the high torque loads applied by an impact wrench, the Dimide Clamp is a reliable clamp that is perfect for squeezing parts together, preventing part-slippage, removing the clamp bottleneck from a production line and more. The Dimide Clamp also has both a removable T-handle and a hex head. This allows the clamp to be easily adjustable while fitting in tighter gaps and for using a large variety of drivers including ratchets, impact wrenches, torque wrenches, breaker bars and more. The clamp also comes with a copper plated screws and feet and zinc plated plates. This preserves the clamp by preventing weld spatter build up and rusting. Ideal for: High load Fast action Welding Metalworking Machining Dimide Long Series Clamps: Dimide Long Series Clamp The Dimide Long Series Clamp is the ultimate clamp when you need long reach capabilities. Offering interchangeable arms with up to 60 inches f reach you can meet the reach demands of any project. The t-handle shoe provides mechanical advantage to get great force even at long reach. Providing excellent torsional stiffness through a rigid body and rectangular tubing arms. The fail-safe shear bolt prevents the clamp from breaking due to over tightening. Ideal for: Sheet Metal Fabrication Woodworking Autobody Work Any other application where you need long reach. C-Clamp (Aka G-Clamps): C-Clamp The popular C-Clamp is the standard go-to clamp for many occasions. Its simplicity and availability are unmatched. Every clamp collection starts with a few sizes of C-Clamps. Due to the popularity of the C-Clamp, various designs are available for different occasions. These designs include: Standard C-Clamps: Most common clamp Double Anvil C-Clamps: Distributing even load Quick Release C-Clamps: Fast action Copper Coated C-Clamps: Prevent weld spatter build up Deep Reach C-Clamps: For long reach Locking C-Clamps: One handed use Ideal for: Woodworking Metalworking Low cost F-Clamps (aka Bar Clamps) f-clamp The f-clamp is designed for a wide opening capacity. The f-clamp has a slider bar that allows the opening capacity to be easily adjusted to satisfy a wide range of applications. This has made the f-clamp another very popular clamp and is used when a C-Clamp's opening capacity is too small. Ideal for: Woodworking Welding Metalworking Large opening capacity Pipe Clamp Fixtures Pipe Clamp The pipe clamp is similar to the f-clamp, except instead of using a sliding bar it uses to a sliding pipe. This allows for the pipe clamp to fit any opening capacity you need as long as you have the appropriately sized pipe. Ideal for: Woodworking Welding Metalworking Large opening capacity Parallel Clamps Parallel Clamp Also similar to the f-clamp, the parallel clamps allow for large opening capacities. Ideal for woodworking, the clamp jaws remain parallel under increased loads to give a large distribution area and prevent leaving dimples in the wood. Ideal for: Woodworking Large opening capacities Quick Action Clamps Quick Grip Clamp Quick grip or quick action clamps are very popular today. They can be tightened using one hand by pumping the push handle. They are also similar to f-clamps in that their clamp opening capacity can be varied. Ideal for: Speed Single Handed Woodworking Locking Clamps Locking Clamp Locking clamps are another very popular clamp. They are fast and be used one handed making them ideal for welding. Ideal for: Speed One handed Welding Metalworking Woodworking Sheet Metal Clamps Sheet Metal Clamp Sheet metal clamps are similar to locking clamps, except they have a large surface area at the clamp jaws which make them ideal for clamping sheet metal and similar materials. Ideal for: Sheet metal Metalworking Speed One handed Locking Chain Clamps Locking Chain Clamp The locking chain clamp is similar to the locking clamp but allows for applying a clamp load in tight spaces since you can squeeze the chain in and around a pipe or anything else that is near another surface. The chain also allows the it to clamp a variety of shapes because it will wrap arnd the object and apply pressure when the chain is tightened. Ideal for: Metalworking Speed One handed Varying shapes Kant-Twist Clamps Kant-twist Clamp A favorite by many machine shops and welders, the Kant-twist clamp delivers load using two parallel jaws, preventing the jaws from walking. The handle positioned perpendicular to the clamp load also prevents the clamp from twisting (Kant-twist) while being tightened. Ideal for: Welding Metalworking Machining Woodworking Wood Hand Screw Clamps: Wood Hand Screw Clamp The wood hand screw clamp is a traditional woodworking clamp. The jaws pivot to allow clamp at varying angles. Ideal for: Woodworking Spring Clamps Spring Clamp Spring clamps are fast and very affordable. However, they deliver little clamp load and have a very limited opening capacity. This makes them ideal for holding down a tarp or preventing movement in one axis that isn't receiving any load. Ideal for: Affordable Woodworking Speed Sash Clamps Sash Clamp Similar to parallel clamps, Sash clamps are used to glue up wide panels and large assemblies. Ideal for: Woodworking Large Assemblies Bench Clamps (aka toggle clamps) Bench Clamp Bench clamps screw down onto work tables. This allows for quick clamping of an assembly. They are ideal for use with a wood table and can also be used with other tables through the use of attachment accessories. Ideal for: Assemblies Woodworking Welding Miter Clamps (aka Corner Clamp) Mitre Clamp The miter clamp is ideal for connecting corners together for assemblies. Ideal for: Woodworking Assemblies Picture Frame Clamps Picture Frame Clamp The picture frame clamp is ideal for clamping together rectangular assemblies such as picture frames, table supports, window frames and more. Ideal for: Woodworking Assemblies Edge Clamps Edge Clamp With three separate screws, the edge clamp can control its position in two axes. This makes the clamp ideal for holding down parts for a butt-weld or for gluing an assembly. Ideal for: Welding Woodworking Cabinetry Clamps Cabinetry Clamps The cabinetry clamp aligns two adjacent cabinets so that the face frames are flush, allowing you to screw them together. They achieve this by applying clamp load in two axes. Ideal for: Woodworking Table Clamps Table Clamp The table clamp is to be used with an accompanying welding table. These are used for welding assemblies and allow for single handed clamping with speed. Ideal for: Welding Assemblies Web Clamps (aka strap or band clamps) Web Clamp Web clamps are best for awkward shapes. The corners are used to lock into the band to apply a load to the assembly. These clamps are used primarily for woodworking of furniture. Ideal for: Woodworking Transportation hold downs Beam Clamps Beam Clamp Beam clamps are used for lifting steel beams and plate. Ideal for: Lifting Scissor Clamps (aka slab tongs) Scissor Clamp The scissor clamp is another lifting clamp. Through the use of its scissor action, this clamp exploits the weight of what is being lifted to apply clamping load. The clamp also provides rough clamping jaws to better dig into the part it is lifting and improve its grip. Ideal for: Lifting Vertical Plate Lifting Clamp Vertical Plate Lifting Clamp This clamp employs rotating teeth that use the weight of what is being lifted to apply an increased load, preventing plate from slipping. Ideal for: Lifting Pneumatic Power Clamps Pneumatic Power Clamps Pneumatic power clamps use compressed air to apply a clamping load. These clamps are used for production runs and machinery. Ideal for: Large production capacity Speed Hydraulic Clamps Hydraulic Clamps Similar to pneumatic clamps, except these use hydraulic power or pressurized liquid to apply a clamping load. Ideal for: Control High clamp load Hose Clamps Hose Clamp Hose clamps are used to seal a hose onto a fitting. These are popular for irrigation or automobile hoses. Ideal for: Pipe fittings Cable Clamps Cable Clamp Cable clamps are used to hold cable along a path. Ideal for: Cable guides and supports Ground Clamps Grounding Clamp Grounding clamps are highly conductive and used to ground electrical current. Ideal for: Electrical grounding Know any clamps or clamping guidelines we missed? Please comment below and we will be sure to update this list!
• What Is pp compression fitting?

  When building or maintaining a pneumatic or hydraulic system, it is important to understand the fittings you are using. Threaded and compression fittings look nearly identical, but they connect in very different ways while functioning the same. You can explore the differences here. Similarities and differences Similarities – Threaded and compression fittings both use threads to help make their connections. However, they use the threads differently. Differences – Threaded fittings have a 1-piece connection end that is used to connect to port/block. These threads create the seal for the connection with the support of Teflon tape or pipe dope and are manufactured in a tapered, cone-shape. Whereas compression fittings have a 3-piece connection that is tasked with its connection to tubes. Compression ends typically are a parallel shape and instead of sealing on the threads, the seal point is created with the assistance of a ferrule (ring, olive or sleeve) and a compression nut. So in this case, the threads simply needed to hold the fitting together with the compression nut. How a pp compression fitting works As you can see, compression fittings form a seal by applying force. This is done with the three piece assembly; (comprised of a) compression nut, connector and an inner ring (the ferrule). When the compression nut is properly tightened, the ferrule is pressed against the tube with enough force to eliminate excess space in the joint, which prevents fluid or gas from leaking. The ferrule forms the seal, not the nut, the threads or any mechanical connection. This takes all the pressure off the mechanical connection. Identifying a compression fitting If you’re looking at a fitting and wondering if it’s a threaded or compression, take a look inside. The compression fitting will have a seat inside for the tube. This is the quickest way to identify a compression fitting. If you need more proof, look for a nut and the aforementioned ferrule (ring). The threads alone won’t tell you what you need to know, as it’s difficult to look at threads quickly and determine if they are tapered or parallel, let alone if they are port or tube connectors. The advantages of compression fittings Compression fittings eliminate the need for soldering or welding a connection, which makes them quick and simple to use. Further, no special skill or tool is needed to assemble and install the fitting. If a fitting is needed in an area that may need to be disassembled for maintenance, the joints can be broken and reassembled without damage to the connection. When assembling a compression fitting, avoid the temptation to over-tighten the nut. This could damage the ferrule inside or the tube itself. Once the nut stops turning with reasonable force, stop tightening. Remember the mention of not needing soldering or welding? That makes a compression fitting a good idea in an area near a high heat or potentially flammable source. Wrenches and pliers don’t typically burst into flames. Considerations Compression fittings are not as solid as a soldered connection. Keep this in mind, and don’t install a compression fitting in an area that’s subjected to frequent flexing or sudden pressure changes. These fittings are more sensitive to those stressors. For a fast, easy assembly, you can’t beat a compression fitting. And as with all industrial components, always verify your TAMPS (temperature, application, material, pressure and size) to ensure a reliable system.